Ultimate guide to coat prep before clipping and why it will dramatically improve your groom
1. A Closer Look At Brushing
Smooth coated dogs (like French Bulldogs or Greyhounds) can be brushed through with a bristle brush. This style of brush will remove loose fur and stimulate the skin. During shedding season, a Deshedding tool may be helpful in removing excess fur.
With double coats, or long coats, you need to think about how you're going to brush in order to reach the undercoat. A good place to start is with a Slicker Brush. A rake may be required for double coated dogs with longer hair, as this tool will get you closer to the skin. If there are tangles or knots that are proving difficult to get through, you can reach for a Dematting Comb. Another tip to consider, especially for dogs with a longer or thicker coat, is brushing in conjunction with a detangling spray. This is a really simple DIY product: use a 50:50 ratio of whatever conditioner you're using and water and mix in a spray bottle. This mix closes up the follicle and makes the hair more flexible, making it easier for you to brush more comfortable for your dog. To finish off, use a stainless steel comb to remove any final knots and tangles
Wire coated dogs can be brushed much the same way as double/long coats above. Start by brushing the coat through with a Slicker Brush and finish off with a stainless steel comb. Groomers use a process called 'Hand Stripping' in order to maintain wiry coats. Basically, the groomer removes the dead hair from the top coat by the root. It's best to learn this from a professional groomer before attempting to do it yourself.
Curly coats need to brushed daily in order to keep the coat well-maintained and to make grooming day as smooth as possible. Again it is best to start with a Slicker Brush. A lot of dog owners tend to just do 'surface brushing'. This is only brushing through the top coat and misses the undercoat. As you brush your dog with a longer or thicker coat, it's important you continuously separate the coat out to expose the skin and brush through from there. Curly coats are best brushed in section (you can use this tip for long/double coats as well). Move through the section with the Slicker Brush; listen out for the brush strokes changing in sound as you remove the knots and tangles. Then go back through the section with the stainless steel comb. Do not use the stainless steel comb to get through knots- go back to your Slicker Brush for this.
You should always be attempting to brush in the direction of the coat. Go with the grain!
Mats
Remain calm!
You can start by gently massaging the knot. This can begin the process of teasing some of the hair apart. Separate the mat from the rest of the coat. We really want the mat 'centre stage', so try to brush away the surrounding hair. Using a soft bristle brush, or slicker brush, begin brushing in alternating directions. Try to keep skin pulling to a minimum. Just like when brushing your own, or your child's hair, you start at the ends to work through knots. So with your pooch, start at point furthest from the ski. Be careful not to snag the skin. It can be helpful to spray a detangling spray (or the DIY conditioner spray we mentioned before) around the mat. However, don't use too much as soaking the mat can cause it to lock up and become harder to remove. As always, finish off with your stainless steel comb.
2. A Closer Look At Washing
Dogs have sensitive skin and a different pH level to humans so it's always advised that you invest in a shampoo specifically for dogs. A safe bet is finding a gentle shampoo that is hypoallergenic.
Where? Indoors in a bathtub or dog tub, or outdoors. Bathing your dog outdoors can be a great option if you have a medium to large dog or a dog that likes to jump out when being bathed. Always test the temperature of water that is coming out of a garden hose (it can be really hot in Summer or really cold in Winter). It can be really helpful to place a non-slip mat down, to help your dog feel safe and secure.
Wet the coat entirely with warm water, right down to the skin. Start at the chest and neck and work water all through the back and sides towards the tail. You will need to approach the head (especially the eyes and ears) in a much more delicate way. You can use a washcloth to gently wet around the face, being really careful as to not let water into the ears. You can press the ears down toward the body to prevent water entering. Apply shampoo according to the manufacturer's instructions (some may require diluting first). Massage into the coat, ensuring you work it into the undercoat. Start at the chest, moving backward toward the shoulders, front legs, sides, back, back legs and tail. Shampoo is most effective when it has been in contact with the fur, dust and dander for around four minutes. Rinse this out gently with warm water, again ensuring you rinse right down to the undercoat.
Next you'll want to use a gentle and hypoallergenic Conditioner on the coat. The Conditioner replaces the moisture lost during washing and shampooing and hydrates the skin and coat. You can refer to manufacturer's instructions, but it is generally best to let the Conditioner sit for a couple of minutes before rinsing. Again, we rinse out thoroughly with warm water.
3. A Closer Look At Drying
If you're wanting to build up your grooming tool belt, it's well worth investing in some large absorbent towels. These will help soak up excess water and speed up the drying process. You can then let your pooch air dry whilst you work through some additional steps (like cleaning out the ears or nail clipping) OR you can use a hair dryer to speed up the process. You'll need to be really careful when using a hair dryer- use it on a low heat and place it a good distance away from the dog.
'Hot' tip: If you fluff your dog's coat whilst drying your dog will look fluffy after grooming is complete. If you leave this step out, your dog's coat will dry more naturally. For example, a curly breed (any of the Oodles) will look curly, rather than fluffy. It depends on your preference! You can fluff up the coat with a Slicker Brush as the hair dryer works its magic.
4. A Closer Look At The Second Brush
You can now go through the coat again with a Slicker Brush. At this point it's really important to be gentle as the skin is soft from the grooming process. This last brush just allows you to pick up any final dead or loose fur. You can again use your stainless steel comb to go through all of the coat and check for any fine hairs or tangles.
5. A closer look at clipping
Without completing the steps above carefully and thoroughly, a clipper (no matter what clipper) is going to really struggle moving through the coat. Clipping is really the tip of the iceberg- with 90% of a groom occurring 'beneath the surface'.
Please contact our team for any queries you may have :
Phone : 02 9683 7816
Email : sales@kramarimports.com.au